How Big Is Julia Child’s Shadow in My Kitchen?

French Onion Soup

Every once in a while I think about Julie Child and wonder how much she influenced me.  She began her world domination before I started dabbling in the kitchen.  And when I did start, I was so intimidated by her reputation that I avoided her famous 1961 opus, “Mastering the Art of French Cooking.”

It wasn’t until I moved to London and my few cookbooks were still in transit that I decided to buy some new ones.  I continued to spurn Child, however, turning instead to her English equivalent, Elizabeth David.  David had spent the 1930's traveling in France, Italy, Greece and eventually Egypt, where she worked for the British government.

Upon her return to London after World War 2, when food apparently was something you needed to survive, as opposed to enjoy, David began writing about cooking.  She published her first work, “A Book of Mediterranean Food,” in 1950.

I still have that book and all the comments I wrote in the margins.  With David’s direct, no-nonsense approach, I made many odd-sounding dishes that proved popular at our table.  Thanks to her I gradually grew comfortable enough with my cooking skills to tackle Child’s “The French Chef’s Cookbook,” which is based on her 1962-1972 PBS TV show and features recipes stripped down to their essentials. 

That’s where I found her recipe for French Onion Soup (the 97th episode), which I have modified slightly.

French Onion Soup – serves 4-6 (adapted from Julia Child’s “The French Chef’s Cookbook”)  

3 tablespoons butter + more if needed
1 tablespoon olive oil
About 2 pounds thinly sliced yellow onions
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
3 tablespoons flour
2 quarts (8 cups) chicken or beef broth
1 cup red or white wine
French bread (optional)
Parmesan cheese (optional) 

Melt the butter with the oil in a large (4 quart) heavy saucepan.  Add the onions and stir.  Cover the pan and cook over medium-low heat for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and translucent.

Uncover the pan and raise the heat to moderately high.  Stir in the salt, sugar and black pepper.  Cook for about 30 minutes, stirring frequently, until the onions have turned an even, deep golden brown. 

Lower the heat to moderate and stir in the flour.  If the flour doesn’t absorb into the onions, add 1 teaspoon butter.  Cook slowly, continually stirring, for about 2 minutes.  Remove from the heat. 

Pour in 1 cup hot bouillon and stir to blend.  Add the rest of the bouillon, bring to a simmer and simmer for 30 minutes over low heat.  If desired, lay a slice of French bread on top of the soup and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.

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